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Messages - AlarmMike

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What type of alert are you receiving? Fault, tamper, or low battery?

By and large I stay away from shock sensors as they are prone to false from fireworks, cars backfiring, and the occasional bird strike.

Keep in mind that burglars for the most part are not intricate.  They are creatures of simplicity and opportunity.  They do not wish to be caught prying or jimmying windows or doors.  They are more likely to kick in a door, or grab a large rock or cinder block laying around and smash out the window and reach in to unlock it.

Think of it this way.  This is how I spec out for a new client.

Your first line of defense is deterrence.  A burglar knows or believes you have security installed, then they will go to the next house that doesn't.  Translated, professional yard signs and door/window stickers.  Ones you buy online or at Radio Shack are obviously just for show.  Professional ones they will know that you most likely do have system(s) in place.

Next level is your perimeter.  Ideally, you want to stop them before they get into your house, not after.  That's where your door contacts, window contacts and glass break sensors come into play.  I also walk around the house from the outside looking to see what is truly accessible and items left outside that can be used to force entry.

Lastly are your interior zones.  We're talking about motion sensors and photoelectric beams here.  They should never be relied upon for primary detection.  They are your last line of defense in the event your perimeter is compromised.

If you have the Hope diamond under your pillow and a burglar knows it, then yes, a perimeter can be breached even silently.  I've seen it from my days as a police officer.  Burglar goes in via an outdoor crawl space opening, then from under the house, they either cut a hole in the floor, or gain access via an internal crawl space access.  Victims however were known gun collectors or high asset wealthy people.  Not your average Joe.  Yes, they could even use a glass cutter.  But figure 80-90% of burglaries are kick in the front door, or smash a window.

With a DH window, you can place a wireless transmitter on one sash and the magnet on the other.

You cannot screw a window shut.  Fire code and egress.

Another note...  The Iotega is 100% wireless with no hardwire zones, AUX power, or PGMs.

While my supplier just brought in (100) 915 MHz units last week, I'd wait to make a statement on it and not rule out 433 yet with the Iotega.  From the install manual...

Model            PowerG (MHz)
WS900-19UL    915
WS900-29UL    915
WS901-14      433
WS901-24EU    433
WS901-34EU    433
WS901-18        868
WS901-28        868
WS901-24AU    433
WS901-34AU    433

* Note that of the 100 units, they still have 76 in stock.  So they didn't fly off the shelves.

Will the indoor / outdoor sirens work with the TR5164?  Seems like they should, but I thought they only worked with Impassa or Alexor.

For DSC, I am not familiar with any other options.

Iotega literally became available about two weeks ago.  I doubt that many have hit the field as of yet.  If you're looking to install now, stick with either the Power Series, or the newer Neo line (which has mixed reviews).  Neo was designed to be upgradable via firmware patch as opposed to new hardware.  I'm sure the Iotega will be similar to that.  But with any new security product, I wait a minimum 6-12 months before marketing it to my clients.

The two major players to look at are Telguard and  However, DSC just came out with the Iotega.  Take a look at it.  Looks compelling.

The following is a list of the * commands available and a description of each:

*1 Bypass (disarmed state)/Reactivate Stay/Away Zones (armed state)
*2 Display Trouble Conditions
*3 Display Alarm Memory
*4 Door Chime Enable/Disable
*5 User Code Programming
*6 User Commands
*7 x Command Functions 1 4
*8 Installer Programming
*9 xxxx No-Entry Arming
*0 Quick Arm (disarmed state)/Quick Exit (armed state)

You can use relays connected to PGMs to shunt the zones based on armed state.

Yes, you can install both 2 and 4 wire smokes on your system.

No, you cannot have another PGM programmed as 2-wire smokes, only PGM2.

You have three choices:
- Add more smokes to your 2-wire loop
- Add 4-wire smokes
- Add a PC5100 addressable module and install FSB-210B(T) on the loop

DSC is pretty bullet proof once installed and programmed.

Aside from the one-button method of turning Chime on and off, it can also be enabled with * 4.  So I suspect someone recently pressed *4 inadvertently, like if they were meaning to bypass (*1).  I wouldn't worry too much about it unless it happens again soon.

The TR5164 comes in KIT64-WKP specified.

To make both entry delays and exit delay all 45 seconds, the key sequence is as follows.  (Looks like you have it correct.)

* 8 xxxx 005 01 045 045 045 ##

Where xxxx is the installer code, not to be confused with the master code.
Do you get a series of beeps or one long tone after you enter the installer code?

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