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The Duress code is programed into location 44 of the NX8V2.
That is a poor example of fishing a wire for AC.  Better to pull the trim plate off and go up from the top of the box.  I could fish that wire with much smaller holes in less than 5 minutes.

Surface mount wiring is unsightly and bad idea overall.  Fishing it is a much better method.  If you must surface mount the wiring, enclose it inside wire molding or raceway for a cleaner look.

If a burglar is going to do anything, it will be most likely smashing it.  Unless they broke in via a delay zone, most likely the panel will have already transmitted a burglary alarm.

I'm not familiar with the Lyric, but normally AC fail signal transmissions are delayed 45-60 minutes (programmable default) due to the more typical short-term power outages.
Zone 9 on the SE can be any hardwired or wireless expander.

Field 22, RF system type, I believe should be set to "2".  There are two options, 5700 and 5800.  You want 5800.
The 20P doesn't have that program option.

No,  *22 sets whether there is an RF Receiver or not. The options are 0 (zero) for no RF Rec'r; and 1 for RF Receiver included in system. There is no 2. Entering a 2 might have given unpredictable results.

The Vista-20SE doesn't support the old 5700 wireless. That was the original Vista-20.
Mike, it almost ALWAYS helps to name the make and model number of the control panel you have, if you can find it.  For instance, if your existing panel is an Ademco 221, I would't hold out as much hope for lots of useful protective circuit wiring as I would if you have a Moose Z1100e panel.  Those are very different panels from different eras, and installers of later panels were more prone to "home-run" cables from individual points of protection. Home-run wiring is far easier to use in an upgrade, and hardwired switches are superior to wireless, even if you didn't have an RF-hostile environment.

If you go on eBay and search for CABLE FINDER TONE GENERATOR, you'll find an inexpensive tool that can make wire tracing easy for a fraction of the cost of hiring a pro to use HIS tone generator.  Maybe you prefer to buy off Amazon, but I usually prefer to search in eBay because they aren't as stingy with their pictures so you can see what you're buying.

Where is your control panel located? (not the keypad, unless it's an all-in-one keypad/control) and how many cables/wires are involved, approximately? Are there peripheral devices with the control panel, and do they have model numbers? Upgrading your system may be easier than you think.
Independent Security Installers, Alarm Monitoring / NYC installer
« Last post by mike822 on September 24, 2017, 09:03:13 PM »
Iím looking for something quite custom and not cookie cutter; not sure if you want to do this and Iím located in nyc. My home had a wired home security system but I need someone to look at the map which is on an older console and track some wires. Then we can determine how to complement whatís wired already
guys - I looked at this video showing how to fish a wire between the controller and outlet. Is that really necessary? Given the unit has backup power, can't I just leave the wiring exposed between power outlet and controller? Doing what the video suggests is very tough in my stucco home. Is this video recommended method used for better security or simply preventing someone accidentally removing the power to the unit?

Correct me if I'm wrong but if a thief enters the home and within seconds, removes power to the controller, that would automatically alert the alarm monitoring station right

guys - I live in an older home that had a wired system and I found a new pieces such as the actual alarm and where door panel was installed. However, the rest of the wires, etc have been painted but there is a map. My options are just install a wireless system or hire a pro to come track and find the wires. I'm afraid though that the latter option would be quite expensive. Thoughts on easier ways of doing this? I'd also like to note that my home is 100 years old with stucco on the exterior and interior and typically wifi signals, etc have caused issues passing through walls


Anytime the panel "power cycles" where both AC and battery are gone, this will reset the chime feature to OFF and you have to turn it back on.  When you turn chime ON is when you get the 3-beep series.  Press the chime button again turns the chime OFF and you hear a single long tone.

Regardless, this is a 5 year old thread, so the OP is probably long gone.
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