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1
Had a low BAT indicator, so I put in new battery in cabinet. Ever since, the Zone indicators don't show up when opening doors and windows. Would putting in TEST mode bring back normal operation or is something else screwed up?  I'd hate to have to reprogram everything.
2
The issue was caused by the change from the NX-8 to the NX-8e - your '8' only had 48 zones and the e, 192 - you can't 'default' a panel change, you can only transfer the settings from one to the other - and I suspect that when they do the parameter change there's a limitation/bug in that they only zero out 128 (a nice round binary number) zones, rather than going all the way to the top.

But notwithstanding, leaving ANY unused zones defined (the default puts ALL zones into partition 1, which I think is just wrong, so you should pass through the settings and manually take unused zones out of all partitions in any case).

And since the impacted zones were outside the basic display range of the LED keypads the ready light and chime issues would not have zones displayed.

As to the 'select a keypad model' drop box, from the perspective of the programing software all LED keypads are the same, while LCD keypads have a variety of display configurations - programmable/fixed text and of course the RF keypads have the radio receiver.  Keypads will respond to all zone data encountered on the buss, which is why you had those phantom ready lights and chimes - the were happening on those high order zone numbers that the keypad was unable to display as programmed.
Thanks for the information. Makes sense about the not ready light issue.

It looks like with the LED keypads, all the programming of the keypad options is done from the keypad and not from the DL900 software. The LED keypad enrollment does show up in the DL900 software but when you click on the LED keypad device, it asks for the keypad model (only LCD models are listed). I tried selecting an LCD model which allowed me to get to the programming options, but when implemented to the panel, an expander error code and beeping is generated.

The only thing left that is not working like the old NX-8 system is the sounder on the two new LED NX-1324E keypads for some functions. Door chime does work. Exit and entry armed beeps do not work (they do work on the two LCD keypads). For example, arming the system by pressing Stay generates the armed exit tone on the LCD keypads but not on the two LED keypads.

The manual for the NX-1300E series keypads only says it will do the armed exit or entry beeps "if programmed" but doesn't go into what location or code?
3
The issue was caused by the change from the NX-8 to the NX-8e - your '8' only had 48 zones and the e, 192 - you can't 'default' a panel change, you can only transfer the settings from one to the other - and I suspect that when they do the parameter change there's a limitation/bug in that they only zero out 128 (a nice round binary number) zones, rather than going all the way to the top.

But notwithstanding, leaving ANY unused zones defined (the default puts ALL zones into partition 1, which I think is just wrong, so you should pass through the settings and manually take unused zones out of all partitions in any case).

And since the impacted zones were outside the basic display range of the LED keypads the ready light and chime issues would not have zones displayed.

As to the 'select a keypad model' drop box, from the perspective of the programing software all LED keypads are the same, while LCD keypads have a variety of display configurations - programmable/fixed text and of course the RF keypads have the radio receiver.  Keypads will respond to all zone data encountered on the buss, which is why you had those phantom ready lights and chimes - the were happening on those high order zone numbers that the keypad was unable to display as programmed.
4
Update: I reset the NX-8E panel to factory defaults and only changed a couple of zone types to match the current zones (no other settings were changed from factory default). So far, the intermittent chime problem has not reappeared and the "not ready/no green ready light" condition has not returned (although that was a less common occurance, so time will tell). So it appears the NX-8E doesn't like something in the programming transfer (the original NX-8 panel settings were downloaded to the NX-586E/DL900 and then uploaded to the NX-8E panel).

I printed out both the original NX-8 and the new NX-8E worksheets from the DL900 software and compared all the settings on the two printouts and each line item is identical (the NX-8E has additional zones and that was left as factory default).

At this point, I will reprogram the settings manually. If that works, then some setting that is not documented must be getting changed in the transfer or there is a bug in the NX-586E/DL900.

I do still have the question about LED keypad programming in the DL900 software. I noticed that "Expanders -> Keypad Options -> Partition 1 -> Keypad 3 (208)" which is the first of the two NX-1324E LED keypads, the "Select Module" dialog box does not have an LED keypad option (the only options showing are NX-148E/NX-1192E, NX-1248E, NX-148E-RF). Is there supposed to be an LED keypad option here to select and continue to the programming box for LED keypads?

5
HI TO ALL
I HAVE A ''NETWORX NX-1500E'' KEYPAD AT MY HOME AND I DON T KNOW HOW TO CHANGE PHONE NUMBERS IN WHICH IT CALLS WHEN IT RINGS
IWOULD BE GREATFULL IF SOMEONE HELP ME
THANK U VERY MUCH
6
The last time I was very knowledgeable about alarm systems; well, let's just say phones didn't have cameras on them.

For the last few decades, my go-to security was a surveillance system and a simple hardwired job paired with the someone's-always-home-and-we-are-armed method.

I am in need up a security upgrade due to the neighborhood's recent addition of several (rival) gangs. Our crime rate has gone up. Our theft and burglary rate has gone up and I am starting to worry for some neighbors who have had gang bangers reported and arrested for property crimes.

So. I have several questions which I will try to condense to this thread. Feel free to chime in on one, some, or even all of the questions and concerns I have.

I live in a fenced split-level with about a dozen windows of varying sizes, 2 doors which lead to the outside and one which leads from the basement to the main level. I have a few large, aggressive dogs in the 90-130 lb range. They are 99% of the time outdoor only. The doors and windows are pre-wired for a hardwire system but it's being gutted to the bare wires.

I want a system with high security. I have been looking at DSC; but am open to any system except SimpliSafe. Too many horror stories about their security holes.

What brands deliver ROCH SOLID hardwired security? I want to keep wireless to a minimum as I am VERY much familiar with how easy it is to jam, spoof and circumvent even the highest end wireless protocols. I also need a system that allows me to change or delete EVERY single master, installer, factory code. I absolutely DO NOT trust monitoring companies. I know enough people in relevant fields that I do not trust employees. I don't want even Jesus Christ himself to have access to the alarm codes. We have an alarm company here who has an A+ rating with the BBB and has been around longer than I've been alive and I trust them as far as I can throw the Sun.

I do NOT want my alarm company to have the ability to monitor cameras, activate microphones on my surv. system OR on my alarm panel / keypads. And I do NOT want them to be able to arm, disarm or reprogram my system. I know how to program it. I just need them to call me when there is an issue and call police if need be.

I do NOT want it connected to any kind of smart devices. My fridge and toaster don't need a computer in them. Call me an old fart. I wear it with pride :)

So far, I figure I need the following things:

Main panel with a battery backup, dialers, a GSM and ethernet module, keypads, panic buttons, remote fobs, door and window contacts, motion detectors and maybe fire / carbon monoxide detectors.

Am I missing anything?

Can I have the alarm only dial out to the monitoring service without them being able to monitor cameras/microphones, arm /disarm etc? i can verify video if I'm not home. I have wifi access almost constantly. I just want them to be able to call me and the police if needed.

Or maybe I just need to self monitor.

Also. what happens in the event the power goes down and the battery dies? Internet outage? Someone jams the signal?

If I am missing anything let me know. Or if you have other suggestions, I'm open to them. When it gets to the point you worry for your family's safety, you have to take that seriously. Which is what I'm trying to do before it gets worse than it is.

Thanks everyone.

PS: I don't have a lot of free time with everything going on. Please, excuse me if I take a while to reply.
7
Do It Yourself Security Community Chat / Install My Own System
« Last post by BobDE on August 14, 2018, 04:20:49 PM »
Sorry to do this, but I have researched a lot and remain confused.

I live in a house that was built in 1990. I have an Ademco system that must have been installed as an afterthought. The windows and doors all have wireless sensors. In all there are 49 sensors including heat and smoke detectors. I am thinking that this is overkill?

I knew that this day was coming and it is here. The system is so old that you can not get parts for it. And it is on it's last leg.

I consider myself very handy and do a lot of my own projects. As long as there is no fishing wires through walls, etc., I think that I could handle the job. (It would be nice to have a product that has great customer service in case I get jammed up)

So I would like to share my needs and see if someone could recommend a system. Thanks in advance!

I would like a system that:

1. could be added on to if I want something new or different.
2. I would like to have a live camera so that I can view my fish pond for problems if I am away.
3. door chimes if a door is opened.
4. adjustable motion detectors to allow for a small dog.
5. easy to install and program.
6. cell call to central monitoring.
7. app for my cell phone.

I have no children in the house. Just a small dog. When we vacation there is a house sitter that stays here and watches the dog and house.

So if someone could point me to a system that fits the above and a monitoring service that won't break the bank, I would be very grateful!

Thanks!
Bob
8
Not the only keypad on the system, the other one is addressed as 22.

But I didn't think this one had to be 16, that 16 could be empty. So I really wanted to know for sure what it is addressed as.

And, I really am interested in why I can't get the address from the 6128?? If its malfunctioning, I would like to know that as it works for activating and deactivating the alarm.
now
9
Vista 20P.  2nd 6160 in bedroom has a very bright red LED when armed (according to the other occupant of the room).  So now it has a piece of tape over it so that it is not so bright.

Is there a way to alter this brightness?  I didn't find it in the manual. 
If I really had to I might be able to put a resistor in series but that is my very last choice of a solution.

10
If itís the only keypad then itís set to 16. Just set the replacement 6160 to 16 and you should be good to go.
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