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... maybe your neighbor installed an alarm system

That crossed my mind but nearest neighbor is 100+ ft from receiver and had an alarm before I installed.  Not sure about other neighbor, easily 100+ ft away.  But if this is the case it might also explain the jamming alarm that I bypassed because I could not identify a source.

... or maybe the house shifted a few MM

Wouldn't surprise me any.  I see little signs of this with widening patio cracks.  Hmmmm.  Just thought about the new concrete porch renovation w/ lotsa rebar finished last fall.  That is about 12 ft away on other side of stemwall.  Now that I think of it, seems suspect, even tho it is opposite direction of my problem sensor.  Interesting consideration.
If you have a spectrum analyzer and an antenna with a tight beam path you pretty much can...

If you were on the brink before something around you could have changed... maybe your neighbor installed an alarm system or a cordless phone that's now adding noise to the mix that wasn't there the last 2 years... or maybe the house shifted a few MM
Yes, you can.  Connect a relay (DSC RM-1 or Altronix RB5 would work) to a PGM.  Output preferably would go to external input on the Floodstop if available.  If not in parallel at the sensor.  You'd program the PGM for Latched System Event (type 10), in 14x enable just option 5.  You could even add a separate piezo sounder to activate on event to distinguish from other alarms.
If the mesh is the issue, chalk it up to stuff happens and you were ok for two years.  We in the industry go out on situations like this from time to time.  Oh to be able to have RF vision where we can actually SEE the RF signals travelling and bouncing!  Make our job a lot easier.

Once had a client with the mesh walls.  Installed a wireless smoke that was fine for 1-2 years then began receiving errant zone faults (DSC) from that zone.  Moved it four feet and it was fine for another 5 years until they decided to put ornate tin ceiling tiles up nearby in their kitchen.  Had to relocate it again 10 feet away and they were fine again since (5+ years).
Hi.  I have a DSC 832 / 5010 panel, with about 2 dozens zones.  It's been working great for years.
My setup is like this:

  • DSC 5010
  • 5 DSC4985 flood sensors around the house (dishwasher, ice maker, bathroom, sump pump, etc.).
  • FloodStop main water shutoff valve in furnace room next to DSC panel.
  • FloodStop is also connected to its own wired flood sensors on the furnace room floor, and connected to DSC panel.
  • FloodStop looks like this:

When water is detected on furnace room floor and triggers FloodStop sensor, FloodStop automatically shut offs main water supply, and triggers a DSC zone, triggering an alarm.

If a wireless DSC 4985 sensor triggers around the house (ie. dishwasher), the DSC alarm sounds, but FloodStop is not affected and so the main water supply is not shut off.

I want to update my setup so that if any alarm or zone is triggered in the house (or ideally just a DSC 4985 flood zone), the DSC panel will either trigger a custom relay, or close a circuit.  I would use that relay/circuit to trigger the FloodStop sensor on the floor, and thereby shutoff the main water supply.

Is there a way for me to wire a circuit off of the DSC panel that will only close if an alarm sounds, or specific zones are triggered?   Or is there some other way to do what I am trying to do?  Which is effectively have the wireless DSC 4985s trigger my FloodStop main water
 line shutoff valve.

Thanks, -Glen.
Mike:  Thank you for info.  It hasn't been 24 hr yet but I have the 'bad' sensor about 25 ft away, line of sight and my fingers are crossed.  Recent history is that it usually alarms at either 24 or 36 hrs.

Thanks for confirming it's a bad idea to run the 12v next to 110.  I can certainly create a new path for it.  I wanted to use an existing surface mounted cable run but obviously that is the wrong solution.

If indeed the problem is the wire mesh in walls, I still don't get it why the system operated well for nearly 2 yrs before throwing off check errors.  Makes me wonder if something in the receiver has drifted a bit out of spec....

What you describe sounds more and more like interference from the mesh.  Your relocation test should tell the tale.  Banding the transmitter and magnet together is fine.  Leave it 5-10 feet away from the receiver, line-of-sight and wait and see.

You are correct about concern of running low voltage cable (12v DC) along line voltage (110v AC).  If possible, try to maintain 12" separation.  If you can, drill a new hole for the receiver cable.
Thanks to you all.  I will check your collective suggestions out.
The wire mesh is certainly suspect, however, it's all through the house and other sensors further away have not had a problem...yet.  It's been 2 yrs.  The sensor that is the problem started acting up off & on a few months ago but in the last 2 weeks it is mostly faulted to 'check'.

I did check this sensor's open/close operation after the last time I got it working.  It properly detects the window opening when it is not in check fault.  Today I had it on bypass due to 'check' fault and when I came home & turned alarm off that sensor cleared the faulted check.  Previously, when coming off of bypass it did not clear this condition.  The only way I have found to clear the check is to pop cover off/on, I guess that resets the 12 hr timer.

I will move sensor to line of site in the basement and program it into the system.  Can I presume that wrapping sensor & magnet with a rubber band is suitable for this test?  Seems to me that it should be ok.

I'll leave swapping of known good sensor to later.  I'm not a wiz at system programming so that is one less step that I risk messing up.

The wifi is Asus, not exactly el cheapo.  I only asked because during internet search I saw it mentioned.  I am aware of the freq difference so I thought it odd that it was even mentioned.  Pleased to know that it is ok to move 5881 closer to wifi unit.  If I move 5881 up into the closet the 5881 connection wiring will be an 8 ft run next to a 110v run.  Might this be a problem (crosstalk or inductance?) to avoid?  I hope not.

I'll post my findings later on.
Thanks again.
1. You wire all bus devices, from keypads to receivers, to their smart power supplies to the same terminals.  Each device has a unique 'address' to which it responds. Once wired in you DO need to go into program mode and then leave it again to force the system to enroll all of the connected devices.

2. Yes

3. Technically not.  If you use a PC to program your system you will need to update to the DLX900 version of the program software.  Learning RF devices into the system with the 1820 is a complete and royal pain.

4. It depends on what the walls are made of.  You don't need to put the receiver into the panel.  Interlogix sells a housing for it, so you can stick it in the center of your home, perhaps in the attic or basement or a closet.  And if you eed more range tey also sell an intelligent repeater kit.

Instead of the 548e you can also buy the NX-148eRF, which is the classic 2-line LCD keypad - it has a built in radio AND it makes it a lot simpler to learn your RF devices into the system - there are some interesting accessories; wireless smoke, flood, freeze and tilt (for garage doors) sensors in addition to fobs and contacts.  I have my system set up to let me know when the garage door closes (I drive off all too often and wonder if I closed it or not).  As well, with the 595 you can access your system using the app if you have an iPhone or Android device and a data plan.

Also, because you have the NX6 keep in mid that there are serious limits to the number of zones you can implement.
I can't say I've used the Bosch sensors before but I really wouldn't worry that much about them... They have PIR and RF and are made by a large brand name so I wouldn't stress too much.

If you can afford to do fobs I think they would appreciate being able to keep it on them.. They can also use them to arm and disarm their own areas if it's wired that way...

If you really need wired and wall mounted you could really go with any button you liked the look of... There's something like this too:

For wireless shock I think you are pretty limited... The 5819WHS should do...
The 5800CO I think is your only choice for wireless CO detectors too...
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