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Women's Self Defense

Women's Self Defense

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Hi all,

I have a DSC Power 1832 (v4.2) system with two keypads - a PK5500 and a PK5508. The home originally came with a Power 832 but I upgraded because I broke the 832 trying to bypass the installer code. With the older Power 832 system, when activating / deactivating the door chime, the panel you activated it from would beep letting you know it had activated (short beep followed by I think 4 short beeps) or deactivated (short beep followed by a long beep), but the other keypad would not make any sound at all. Now, with the 1832, when I activate or deactivate the door chime from a keypad, the other keypad makes a single medium beep. Does anyone know if this is just due to differences between the 832 and the 1832, or if the second panel beep is something that can be configured? I do note that when using my Envisalink and sending a *4 custom sequence, the door chime feature is toggled, and neither panel makes a sound.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or comments!
Yes if you have Compass software, but you have to be a dealer to get it.
This may be a stupid question but is it possible to program a Vista panel with a computer instead of standing in front of a keypad typing in cryptic codes and watch 3 digit responses?  It seems like something that would be possible, but I'm guessing that even know it's 2017 that this is probably not possible.  The panel I'm working on is a Vista 128FP.

While I'm at it, is there any way to get a report (of any kind) of all the programmed values on a Vista 128FP Panel?


Is this going to be a heated garage? Motion detectors do have a operating temperatures that you have to consider. also I'd use 200 degree fixed heat detectors.
Awesome, thanks.  A couple of followup questions:

- Is 22/4 sufficient for a 100'+ run, or should I look at 18/4?
- I can use a 5160 keypad in the garage since I already have a 6160 in the house for programming the panel, correct?
- Can the extender in the garage be configured as a second partition on the 20P, or does an extender have to be on the primary zone for some reason?

Edit to add one more thing I just thought of:  I'm not terribly familiar with how partitions work on the 20P, can it be configured so that each keypad would arm only its partition, or is there a scenario where one keypad could arm both?  I definitely don't want the garage to arm the house.  It would be OK if the house armed the garage, although potentially annoying if I was working in the garage and somebody left the house and set the alarm.
You're on the right track with your plan.  Conduit is the way to go, easy to replace wire run if necessary.  For fire detection, you'll want to use heat sensors.
I have a 400 sq. ft. detached garage that I'm building, and the time has come to start sorting out security monitoring.  I have one pedestrian door, three sliding windows, and an overhead door.  My plan is to put contacts on each window and the pedestrian door, and probably a motion sensor in one corner for good measure.  The overhead door has an electric opener with deadbolt, so I feel like it is OK as-is (especially if I go with the motion sensor).  Assuming that's all sound, my question is how to tie it into the house system, which is a Vista 20P with a 6160V keypad.  It's 100'+ from where the panel is to the garage, so my current thought is to put another keypad and a zone extender in the garage and run one 4 conductor wire from the house panel to the extender in the garage, then hardwire everything in the garage to the extender.  Is that correct/is that how zone extenders work?  I prefer the idea of hardwired over wireless and this is new construction, so hardwiring the sensors isn't a huge burden.  Would/could that extender be considered a new partition on the 20P?  I'm not planning on putting a siren in the garage, what I would like is to use the existing house siren for both the house and the garage.  While we're on the subject, is there certain alarm wire that's OK for direct burial, or will I need a conduit between the house and the garage?

Oh, and this is going to be primarily a wood and metal working shop, so a smoke detector will probably die quickly.  Is there some sort of fire detector that can survive dust, sawdust, and welding smoke without going off six times a day?
DSC makes  a status LED  that connects to the keybus and gives you the following conditions

1. Ready to Arm Solid Green
2. Not Ready to Arm Flashing Green
3. Armed Stay Solid Red
4. Armed Away Flashing Red
5. Alarm has been Activated Flashing Amber
the pc5601 module requires no programming and mounts to a single gang box.
Throw a status LED on another output.  You won't have an annoying siren squak.

Interesting idea, how would I do that exactly ?
Is that via a PGM (if so, they seem tricky to set up)
Throw a status LED on another output.  You won't have an annoying siren squak.
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