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All good suggestions. My fave is length of coat hanger bent into an "L" shape. Holding it so the "L" is upside down, push it up beside the contact (this is why I prefer 1/4" contacts in a 3/8" hole). When the base of the "L" is past the top of the contact, turn it 90 degrees so the base is now across the top and then pull the contact out. The base of the "L" is trimmed to just a couple millimetres. Works best with coat hangers made of thin metal to keep the tool small.
TN DIY, Jimmiee,
Thanks to both of you!

I had not received Jimmiee's recommendation before I removed the contact :-)

I made an unsuccessful attempt at levering out the contact with a small screwdriver and ended up (carefully) drilling into the contact with an 1/8" bit. I then screwed in a 4" deck screw for a handle.  It came out easily.

Thankfully it had a significant amount of loose wire attached.

Thanks again!
I have two sharp (ground down to narrow blades) small screw drivers. I push (force) each of the screw drivers down along opposite sides of the switch. When I get about a  quarter/half inch into the wood, I pry the switch out of the hole. Yes, you're going to mush the switch and you may have to pry for a bit and pick out pieces as the switch comes apart but this way you conserve the wires so that you can install a new switch. The hole may get a little messed up but a little bit of caulk can fix it right back to new.

Drilling it out is dangerous as the wires can get caught up in the drill bit and then your SOL.
That has always plagued me. I always tried a small bladed screw driver and wedged it underneath the perimeter of the contact and pry it out. Sometimes it works and other time it doesn't. Good Luck.
I've searched and searched and cannot find an answer.

I have a periodically stuck recessed 3/8" magnetic contact located in a wooden door frame.  What is the best way to remove it?  (I've considered drilling a hole into it, inserting a screw, and pulling it out).

I'm also concerned that there may not enough slack to pull it out and install a new one.

(Worst case I can put a wireless sensor there as I have some other wireless sensors installed).

Iím trying to fit a Visonic MCR-308 wireless receiver to my existing wired alarm (Veritas 8 Compact), Iím coming up against two problems:

ē   On the alarm panel for each zone there are two terminals the door switch and panic button have two wires going into their zones, which makes sense, however the PIRs only have one wire per zone going into the right-hand terminal which didnít make sense as the PIRs have four wires the two power wires and the two alarm wires, obviously the power for each PIR is fed from the same terminals on the panel (AUX), for the alarm wires at first I thought maybe one of the pair were joined from each PIR and then returned to the panel like common negative return or a common feed, but I canít see anything like this in the manual or while looking at the panel,  can anyone explain how this works?

ē   The other problem is on the MCR-308 wireless expansion module has four zones for each of the zones there is only one terminal which goes back to the panel!? I have wired zone 1 on the MCR-308 to zone 6 on the panel, however it permanently shows as being active, so clearly this isnít right.
For me the missing factor is that there should be a second wire coming from the MCR-308 to create the alarm circuit to the panel, but the only other terminals are TAMP INACT L.BAT JAMM (Outputs 1234) and ARM there is also the 12v -+ and COM DATA but I believe the COM DATA is for expansion modules.

I suppose the question how do I wire this up!?


I have a PowerMax+ alarm system that is currently being centrally monitored by AR.  I will be discontinuing the use of a landline and wanted to see how I need to setup to have the alarm system monitored without the use of a landline.  I have cell service, internet as well.

I am not sure if there is some sort of module / connection that I need to purchase, as well as how to set it up so that AR can continue with the central monitoring. 

Any help, suggestions on modules/connections/products to use, would be appreciated.

Iím ďthe other fellowĒ. I apologize if my remark was thought to be snarky I assure you it was not meant to be.

I just wanted to let you know that you could eliminate the frustration of trying to bring your locked panel back to life for $169.

EVL-4 is connected to an internet connection, not to a GPRS or cellular communicator.

It can be used independently.

I have an IPDatatel CBAT dual path internet/cellular communicator that transmits to central station for live operator monitoring. I can also use it to control the alarm remotely.

In addition I have an EVL4 connected to the keybus and to my internet router. I can use it to independently remotely control the alarm plus it sends text messages for any activity. 

I like the redundancy.

The EVL4 user interface is not a pretty UI but itís very functional. You can arm,disarm, look at past events, see status of every zone etc. it also can send text messages for events. The best part is itís a FREE service.

Now the IPDatatel UI is a nice graphical virtual keypad interface.
I'm also looking for a reliable nannycam that's not too noticeable. What are people using nowadays? There seem to be so many choices on the market but and I can't decide.
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