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RBEBY

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1
That is what is required to test the wire run and contact operation.  Remove it from the loop with the other doors so you are testing it independently.

You could try removing the contact from the door frame to test it specifically, but I don't recommend that unless you know what you are doing.  You stand a good chance of damaging the contact, connections or wire if you are inexperienced.  And then, you are only testing the contact, not the wire run it is connected to.

Advise us when you have tested the cable run in the attic.
2
Sorry, we haven't gone back up there--it's been too cold.  Do you have another test we can try if that one works?  How can I tell if the contacts in the door and jamb are good?

~paintslinger
3
Thank you for this information. I had not considered this remote dial in option so thank you for the advice. If anyone has the required equipment to try this or the BG access codes, please could you PM me - your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
4
There is no way I know of to default (return all programming to factory presets) on those MA panels.  The panels come from Napco preprogrammed with a factory program for zones and report codes, programming is just changed as needed.  Defaulting a panel seldom fixes problems unless problems are related to programming.  It seems to be doubtful that this is programming related.

Keypads on these systems operate in tandem, it is not possible to enable or disable entry/exit tones for individual keypads in dealer program mode on this system.  I would swap the keypads and see if the problem follows the keypad, I'm willing to bet it will.

I don't think your prior blown fuse is related.  The fuse did its job before any damage happened.  These panels are bulletproof, I had an old 1008e get hit by lightning badly enough to blow components off the board, and it still worked perfectly.

RP1054 keypads are all over ebay.
5
We prefer that if two members are going to trade or disclose proprietary information like a dealer's installer codes, that it not be made public.

Short of that, your only option may be to default and reprogram the panel.

If you know somebody with the MD12 modem and DLS2002 software, they can try to dial into the panel.  If there is not a DLS access code programmed, they could connect and make the zone changes for you.
6
Hi there

I have an ex British Gas intruder alarm (dsc 5501 user panel, pc5010). Im looking for the system master code (installer code) for this panel as I need to carry out a reset and remove a zone. As Iím sure you know, British Gas went over to dyno rod and then protectmyproperty.com. I believe British Gas all used the same master codes for these panels - would you be able to shed any light on it for me? I donít want to have to go through the hassle and unnecessary expense of changing the panel, if Iím lucky enough to glean this code from a knowledgeable engineer with an understanding of these panels. Incidentally, Iíve tried the DSC default of *8 5010 with no success!

Many thanks in advance
7
What were the results with the multimeter?  You are measuring for resistance, not current or voltage.
8
Thank you for all of your suggestions.  I will try them shortly.

Answers to some of them are as follows:

Panel is a NAPCO 1000e.  Keypad is a NAPCO RP1054e.  The keypad sounder did work OK in the past.

The condo where this system is located has two keypads, one by the entry door and the other on the second floor.  I have been working with the one by the entry door, but I plan to use the one on the second floor to arm the system and see if its sounder works.  If it does work then my problem is with the entry door keypad.  If it does not work then the problem is in the panel.

I am aware of the jumper in the keypad which if cut silences the sounder.  I have not cut this jumper.

One comment was to reset the panel back to the factory settings.  I have not yet looked into how this is done.  I have the dealer program code so I can make changes to the panel memory.

One final thought.  The panel is connected to a USP voice dialer that phones several numbers if the siren goes off.  A while back, when the dialer got moved the two power leads apparently touched and blew the remote power F3, 1 amp fuse.  I reworked the wiring to the dialer to eliminate the shorting problem and replaced the fuse.  I tested the system after that and everything worked OK including the dialer except for the keypad sounder.  However, I don't know if the sounder was working just prior to this shorting problem, or if the short somehow caused the problem with the sounder.
9
Excellent advice!  I didn't think about diagnostics and I have never heard this door chime.  If no current registers, then do I have a damaged wire?  I can trace it back to the door but I can't see down into the wall cavity. What would be my next test?

~paintslinger
10
What kind of panel do you have?  MA1000, MA1008LKDL, MA1008e, they all have different manuals.

Did this work before and stop working?

Those panels do not do an exit delay tone.  When it shows "armed", the delay is silent.  It's a steady tone for an entry delay, if I recall.

Those MA keypads are weird.   By default, the tactile beep when you press numbers is disabled.  It can be enabled, however.

If you've never programmed an old MA1000 series before, it's a different animal. 
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