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Messages - rakstr

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1
IIRC nodecentral nailed it on the contact closures.  I scratched my head over this when I added a few wireless sensors a couple months back and it wasn't until I made the entire panel green that the tamper conditions reset.

If that doesn't work ....

From a document titles "Application-Notes_PC1616_1832_1864-V4.2_Wireless-Zones.pdf"

http://cms.dsc.com/download2.php?t=1&id=12584

Technical Tips:
1. When using zone expanders or addressable devices, make sure the wireless detectors are not
assigned a zone already used on a PC5108 or as addressable.
2. The RF5132-433 will generate a Module Tamper if an RF Jam condition is detected. To disable RF
Jam, turn ON option [7] in Section [804], subsection [90].
3. If good placement tests cannot be received from a transmitter, try moving the transmitter. If there is
a problem with multiple detectors, try moving the receiver.
4. If the keypad gives a long error tone when a wireless subsection is entered, it indicates the receiver
is not connected to the KEYBUS.
Quick Test:
Violate all wireless detectors and verify all are displayed on the keypad.

2
Just for grins, have you tried the two new user codes as the master code?


Hi

I know what you're going to say, it can't change by itself but for some reason the Master Code to my panel = '1234'  is now showing up as invalid?

I have racked my brain as I'm sure I have not changed it, all that I have done recently was to add my first two User codes ?

Could that have done something ?

The installer code is still the default of '5555' and I could have sworn I left the master code 'entry 40' as default too.  Both new user codes work fine to disarm the alarm, and of course the installer code is still ok. It's just the Master Code that is no longer being accepted.

Any ideas?

3
To the best of my knowledge, low voltage splices need not be accessible and can be buried in the wall/ceiling.  However, check your local codes.  Mike Holt forum is a great resource as well.

NOTE - That said, I ALWAYS place splices in an accessible box :)

4
You are correct.  However, to use the built in zone on the keypad, you need to assign it to a unique slot for identification.  I want to attach a motion to the zone on the keypad upstairs and I had forgotten which slot each keypad was assigned.  That was the crux of my question!!!!
As I recall, the alpha keypads will work in any slot; but you had to have one in slot 8 to allow broadcasting of labels to other keypads.

5
That did it!  THX.


All were already assigned slots and I want to add a motion to the zone on one of them.


Wierd that in the DLS Signature View only the RFK5500 shows up labelled by type and version with the RF module.  The other two PK5500's only show up as keypads labelled slot 6 and slot 7.  The older LED keypad show up as slot 1 but I expected that!




6
So treat them like any reed loop zone (other than zone definition)?  No power required (AUX/PGM/...)?
Of course it's best to terminate each loop to it's own zone.  Zone type 08, but some would say 14.

7
Is there a command sequence to tell you which slot a particular keypad is assigned?


I can see all my keypads in DLS "Signature Graphic" but I don't l know which is which physically.

8
Since it seems to be a separate zone, you may also try Section 1XX (XX=zone #) and set option 1 to OFF and option 3 ON (Page 17 of manual).


http://cms.dsc.com/download.php?t=1&id=17007




9

Sorry for the repost but the system would not allow me to edit my original, a frequent issue on this board!


I've recently located multiple 5621 Mechanical Heat Detectors in my attics. They're place above the HVAC equipment in the attics and in the RV garage.  I'm guessing I've yet to find one as there is one more wire than I can account for in the panel box though it may be in the wall by the front door for an extra keypad.  I've found multiple phone lines, RG6, and CAT5E in the house that the sheet rock guys buried (proximity wire detectors are the bomb!)
 
https://www.systemsensor.com/en-us/Documents/5600-Series_DataSheet_SPDS300.pdf


The detectors appear connected to "unused" wires in my alarm panel box (DSC1832) and the VERY faded labels in the box seem to indicate the correct locations.  I haven't buzzed the wires yet but they are connected at the devices.  They appear to be in two loops, don't know yet if serial or parallel.


I know they've never been connected to the panel itself as the ends in the box are all flush cut and I've personally replaced the panel multiple times due to electric events.


I have DLS up an running and use it to manage my panel.


Any good pointers on connecting these sensors to my system?  If it matters, I'm 99% sure the loop for the RV garage detectors passes through the box where the keypad is in that building but also runs all the way to the panel.

10
Ugh, just typed out a long explanation and the forum refused my reply and .... :(  Let's try again!


I think I figured it out.  It appears DLS only updates the keypad in slot 8 when it comes to chimes.  Labels go to all alpha keypads but apparently chimes do NOT!


The keypad I have in slot 8 (PK5500ENG) is in the room with zones 11 and 12 that I reported "worked".  The other zones I tried to change were in rooms with the other keypads.  Why keying in changes in those rooms didn't work is still a mystery but resolved.


I set the chimes I wanted for each zone and did a global load of the DB to the panel instead of exchanging changed tags.  Since I was keying in stuff, I wanted to make sure I had everything "as was" except for the chimes.


I had hoped the global load would have forced a change to the chimes in all keypads but still no.  I had to manually enter the broadcast sequence at the keypad in slot 8.  After that, all seems to work and I can now individually change zone chimes per keypad!!!!


Probably a boundary condition rarely hit in the software!


I need to test more but I think I'm good to go.

11
Ya, I got the sections right in practice, just not in messages!!!


Can't change the chime no matter what on some zones, via keypad or DLS.  Chime is enabled on all zones but the PIR.  I have changed it via DLS for zones 11 and 12.


Made some screen scrapes from DLS and took some pics from the keypad but can't seem to upload images on this board :(

Sections 20x are for assigning zones to a partition.  I think what you're looking for is sections 1xx, bit 3 to enable chime by zone.

Zone types Delay 1, Delay 2 and Instant have chime enabled by default.

*Edit:  I was just about to comment about how "Custom Chime" is programmed at each keypad for specific sounds, open only, or close only when I think I realized what your issue is...

To program custom chime at a PK/RFK5500 keypad you have to enter Keypad Programming...

*8 xxxx * 2xx 1   for 6 beep chime

After programming one 5500 keypad chime features, you can broadcast them to all other 5500 keypads by...

*8 xxxx * 994 * wait until the broadcast is finished and then press ##

12
No matter what I do, I can only get some zones to use "chirp sounds" other than the default multiple beep chime.  I've tried programming from DLS and direct via keypad.  When using the keypad, bit 1 gets reset even if I clear it.  I can set multiple bits, e.g. 1-3------.  If I do *8,IC,20X,1,#,#,# and then repeat, bit 1 is reset.  I looked for zone defaults (zone 1 is defined as Delay 1) thinking it must be part of the Delay 1 default but could find nothing.


I successfully changed a wireless instant zone (11 and 12) to "Alarm Tone Chime" but any other choice defaults to the multiple beeps.


I even tried programming when the chirps were enable and disabled via the keypad.


DLS 5
DSC 1832 V4.6
3 PK5500 ENG
1 RFK5500
1 PC5008 (OLD LED 8 zone keypad)
1 Envisalink 4

13
No joy on the 4965 either.  The way it's wired the loop is all "in the wall" (only two leads exposed at each reed switch) and I can't easily segment the windows without running new wires.  It's doable but I've decided it's not worth the hassle at this point.  If I'm going to have one wireless sensor in my office, three is just extra batteries.....  REALLY disappointed with DSC doesn't have a viable "solution" to what must be a fairly common need/repair.


I suspect that one wire in the zone loop is still good so that wire all the way back to the panel is still "connected" which exceeds the 25 foot limitation.  I kind of expected this but decided the learning experience with the 4965 was worth the time/cost.  I have another use for the 4965 on the gun safe as a tip alarm so I'm good :)  Impressed that it communicates when placed INSIDE the safe!!!!  Going to let it there for awhile to see what happens and if it stays good, I'll add a reed switch to detect door opens from the inside.  If all that works I'll consider all this a SUCCESS!






I'll play more just for knowledge but I just ordered 4945's for each window.

14
The break in the line is between the window loop and the alarm panel and is someplace I REALLY can't easily get to.  It may even be in the wall.  If not it's 8 feet down to the ceiling of the room and that's after crossing about 15 feet of attic to get to that edge, none of it decked and all of it covered with insulation, wiring, and HVAC.

I'm sure you've seen the installations where wires are strung tight like piano strings to save 50 cents on wire! ;)

The 4965 arrived yesterday, hope to get to it today or tomorrow!
I try to run new wires whenever it's possible. I also have had good luck with a bank of 2 windows with switches run to one transmitter. These were casement windows fairly close together on the 2nd floor windows with the RFK5500 on the first floor. It was a long time ago and it may have been 3 windows, just can't remember, but the are still working.

15
Look into Chamberlain MyQ!  I love it and it does exactly what you're looking for plus you get customized alerts and smartphone control of your garage doors.


https://www.chamberlain.com/smartphone-control-products/myq-smartphone-control

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