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Messages - Magnum Alert

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According to the 5834-4 manual, the bottom two buttons (loop 1 and 4) can be assigned to a zone for panic.  It's loop 2 of serial number 2, which is one digit higher than the number printed on the fob, and holding both buttons down for a second sends the loop.

Hey guys, I should know this but I wanted to see if anyone has first-hand experience!

A friend has an ADT Safewatch Pro 3000 (the clone of the Vista-20P) in their home, acquired the system when they bought the home.  I'm a pro, so I'v never personally dealt with the Envisalink but everyone seems to love them.  The Envisalink provides the services they would like.  It's my understanding that the module connects to the panel's keypad bus and gets a hardwired link to the internet gateway, correct?

Being the the SW3000 is a 20P with ADT's custom tweaking, I would _EXPECT_ it to work flawlessly as it would with a native 20P.  But, before having them purchase a product that may not work, I wanted to see if anyone has actually installed one on a SW3000 and could confirm or deny my theory!

Hardwired or strictly wireless?

Alarm Controls/Assa Abloy makes wallplates that have recessed pushbuttons, two recessed pushbuttons, etc.  These buttons can be wired together so that both must be pressed at the same time to trigger the loop.

For wireless, I think the newer 5834-4 keyfobs have loops that are transmitted when two buttons are pressed at the same time.  Check out the manual, if memory serves, it's one digit higher than the printed serial number.

I would start with checking the operation of the contact on that door, it probably just took a surge from the power outage and got fused together inside.  If you have an old Z1100, and the contact is as old as the panel, that's probably the issue.

The contact can be checked with a basic volt/ohmmeter or continuity tester, or you can just set the door chime on or arm the system, and disconnect one of the loop wires from that zone in the panel.  If the keypad chimes or goes into entry delay, the panel is fine and the contact is likely just bad.

You'll be fine with 4-conductor for your motion detectors.  You're probably looking at the tamper switch contacts on another zone.  That's probably a UL burglary or mercantile requirement, but even in such locations, I've never seen them used.  If you _really_ want the tamper switch wired in, just connect it in series with the alarm relay.

Sounds like you've got your partitioning right.

I don't think any of us are trying to be snarky.  When it comes to installing, no two places are the same.  It's not going to be easy to teach someone the trade in a classroom.  Maybe it's easy for us to say that when we've had to deal with the disaster installs by the large companies that DO try to train their installers this way and can't get a wireless system right.  (I can speak from experience).

Honestly, right now, I wish our supplier, ADI would offer an alarm systems 101 course like what you're asking.  We need techs and it's very difficult to take green people who don't know a motion from a glassbreak, and get them trained on everything they might run into, especially when you're doing service calls on everything.  There are training expos (I use the term lightly, but it's really a sales push) but nothing is "this is basic circuitry".

If you want to undertake the task, we are here to help.

Kind of a long shot, but check the abort delay in field 50.  By default, it's set to 2, which delays reporting of burglary alarms 30 seconds after the siren sounds.  Disarming it in that abort delay time cancels the alarm report (and _shouldn't_ report a zone restore...).  Make sure it's set to 0.

How exactly are yo getting it to trip and dial out?

Nope.  Zones operate independently of their piggybacked doubled zone.  So if you needed to bypass zone 10, which shares the same physical input as zone 2, zone 2 will be unaffected.  By using different EOL resistors on 2 and 10 (for instance), the panel is able to differentiate which zone is faulted.  The only caveat is that only normally closed loops can be used, so no fire, CO or other normally open devices can be used on any input that is set up for zone doubling.  Zone doubling works great in a pinch, but it will make the wiring to the panel a bit messy, so be sure to label your wires and their zone number!  I think it's a 3k resistor for zones 2-8, and a 6.2k resistor for zones 2-10 when zone doubling is used.  the 2.0k resistors will not be used on doubled zones.

When it says "does not increase the total number of zones supported", that means that zone doubling does not allow you to have over 48 zones, which is the total number supported by the 20P.  I guess if you had all 48 zones used, they're saying that zone doubling cannot expand the system any further.

If you use zone doubling, your base zones will be numbers 2-8 and the expanded zones will be 10-16.  They don't "share" zone numbers.  So it sounds like what you're hearing is not correct.

Yes, both the 4219 and 4229 expanders will show 8 different zones.

for your electric latch, you could use an Altronix timer relay that holds the relay for 30 seconds after being triggered by the panel.

Ok, so in place of defaulting the panel, I know there is a way to just reprogram the codes.

To get started, power the panel down with that switch inside the panel.  Lock the pin down, and power the board back up.  I'm not sure if it'll make the 4 beeps or not, but I do think I remember it powers up with the keypad blank.  Now it should act as if you entered 9-program code at the keypad.

From here, you should be able to enter a new programming code by pressing 5, configuration digit 9, then a new 5-digit code.  Factory default is 98765.  Once it's done, I'm pretty sure it kicks you out.  Power it back down, unlock the pin, then power it back up.  Hopefully, now you can do 9-new program code to get into user programming again, and program new codes by entering 1-4, configuration digit, and the new code.

Do you have a Z1100 system I manual?  There are examples on page 11

On the System I, there's that blue locking pin.  If memory recalls, you lock the pin down, then press 9, then the installer code, I think it beeps a few times, then press 0.  that takes you to section 000 and you can only step forward in programming.  In lieu of pressing 0, you can press 1-4 to set codes, etc.  It's been a minute since I worked on one.

The Z1100e is much different.  To bypass the installer code, you power it down with the switch, push in and hold the button, and power up.  It programs like the other Z900/Z950/Z800 panels where you can jump around in programming.  The System I is kind of primitive in comparison.  Even for me, who is proficient on most all older Moose systems, the System 1s are a learning curve.

I'll give a look at the manual.  Reprogramming the zones, etc isn't something you really want to undertake.

4-wire ECP communications on Alarmnet units will work on all 20P panels and just about anything recent, as sole/primary communications.  There have been the oddball First Alert 145c and some other older Ademco panels where Alarmnet is backup only.  But for the most part, all Vista panels except the 40 and 50 will do ECP communications to an Alarmnet.

There is already a dual path, it's the IPGSMV4G.  I own one, they're not new.  That will connect to your 20P's ECP bus.  You can use the supplied transformer and 6v backup battery, but it isn't totally necessary.  You can power it from your 20P's aux power output (make sure you do the proper power calculations to make sure you're not overloading the panel).  Leave terminals 1 and 2 for the AC transformer unused, wire the 4-wire ECP to 3, 4, 5, 6.  Remember that the data wires are flipped, so it will be yellow then green instead of green then yellow.  Then install a jumper wire between terminals 1 and 3.  That will make the radio run off of ECP power.  Don't use the supplied backup battery. 

Jumpering the AC input to the 12v terminal just forces it to power up.  It will still be a full data communicator.

I mean if you really wanted to delve into it, you can assign them to PGM outputs for various things.

I always, always disable audible exit fault.  Not only is it annoying (I had an outside siren and made that mistake one morning), but it's also a common cause of service calls for "my alarm went off and nobody called me".

In addition to the two antennas, those two grounding clips need to be used in the receiver and screwed to the panel.  I have seen a dramatic decrease in range, for whatever reason, when those clips are missing.

Are you using the regular chime mode or the installer-#4 go-no-go test?  If it passes the go-no-go, you'll never have a problem.
Also, how are you testing the motion detector?  They do go to "sleep", so normally, you wouldn't hear a chime but once every five minutes or so, unless you take out and reinstall the battery to put it into test mode.  Then, it will flash its LED when it detects motion and transmit each time.

It does seem odd that a small transmitter works in the place that the motion detector doesn't.  Do you have another 5800PIR that you can test in the motion detector's spot to rule out a flaky motion detector?

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