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Topics - VR46

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1
I've added up the published current draw on components connected and I'm well over 600mA, with plans to add more.

What are my options to increase the current capacity as I believe the maximum allowed on my board is 700mA?

Also, what happens if 700mA is exceeded - does it do irreversible damage, or simply trip a breaker temporarily?

Thanks.

2
PC1832 V4.60

All of a sudden, coming home from work yesterday I noticed the Door Chime sounds whenever a contact is opened.

What would cause this feature to activate itself?  I have not noticed any other anomalies but am concerned if it starts acting up.

I installed the system last year and have disabled this feature from day 1. Last time I entered the system was about 2 months ago. There have not been any power outages recently.

 
 

3
PC1832

If I arm it as AWAY, the person staying home will trigger the motion sensors.

If I arm is as STAY, won't it automatically change to away when I open the door to exit?

4
I recently acquired some Maxsys keypads LSD4501TZ and expander modules PC4116.

1) Would either of those work on my Powerseries PC1832 system?

2) If not, why not? This is more of a generic question - such as what makes a DSC system incompatible from another one?

3) Is Maxsys the precursor to Powerseries? Or is it in a different category (such as commercial only)?

5
PC1832

I have about 20 zones.

I want 15 zones to trigger the main bell, and the other 5 zones to trigger a 2nd bell (more like a little buzzer).

What is the best way to do this? I'm thinking of putting the 5 zones on a new partition, but how do I get them to trigger the buzzer and not the main bell?

Thanks.



6
PC1832
RFK5500 and PK5500
SEOL

Issue: When I open a contact, it gives me a Zone Tamper error.

History:

A couple months ago I successfully programmed over a dozen zones, both hardwired and wireless.

Yesterday I programmed a new hardwired zone on my 2nd PC5108 expansion board (zone #17, type 26).

Bridging a 5.k resistor across Z1 and Comm it shows as contact closed (on my Envisalink app) and no error on the keypad. All good.

Removing the resistor (simulating opening a door) it gives me "Zone Tamper" error (both on the keypad and Envisalink). I'm expecting it to show as door open.

What am I missing?


Things I've tried so far:
Programming the zone as type 03.
Verifying the zone is not programmed as wireless.

In the manual under troubleshooting for zone tamper it only gives mention of wireless devices and DEOL circuit fault. My zone uses neither.



7
I'm getting this error when trying to create a new topic in the DSC forum.

I'm testing it now in this forum to see if it goes through.


Edit: OK it works fine here.  However I can't create a new topic in the DSC forum. Any advice?  Thanks.

9
My entire system is wired NC SEOL.

I have a FDD 7050 heat detector I'd like to install.  It is NO.

Do I just install it as zone type 14 (heat) and change opt13 to NO?

I imagine no resistor gets installed?

Thanks

10
I would like to be able to arm the system using a regular switch, either momentary or toggle.
However I do not want the switch to be able to disarm.

My understanding is zone type 22 and 23 allow you toggle between arm and disarm.

Any way to have an arm only switch?

I would like to put it in my garage to be able to arm the house just before driving off. The overhead garage door is not connected to the alarm.



Also, does the state of zone 26 (24hr non alarm) have any affect when arming the system?  I'm looking for a zone type that will have no effect on the system, but simply report on the keypad whether it's in the open or closed state.



11
PC1832

I have a PK5500 which I like, but I do miss the old keypads with the 6 red LEDs showing at a glance which zones are open.

How can I make (and connect) my own board with 32 LED's showing all zones at a glance?
If that's not feasible, does DSC sell something like this?

Thanks.

 

12
PC1832, self-monitored.

1) Will a type 16 panic zone sound the alarm if the system is in the midst of an entry delay? I know a type 2 "instant" zone will NOT instantly trigger an alarm during an entry delay.

2) If type 16 is truly instant, what zone has the same attributes as type 16, but is only active when the system is armed?

3) When setting up a code for the cleaning lady, is it best to make it a maintenance code?

Thanks.



13
I have an EVL 4 for the main purpose of controlling my DSC panel from my cell phone.

I'm starting to read about how that's not a secure thing to do as others could gain access to your system.

During setup nothing was mentioned in the official instructions on how to increase security from hacking, so I left everything at default.
Should I be concerned, or am I overreacting?

For example, here is one warning:
Security oh no!

I would not recommend exposing this device to the internet, just look at shodan:

https://www.shodan.io/search?query=envisalink

All these devices listed are simply asking for trouble.

Ideally the EVL-3/EVL-4 should be serving up a HTTPS webpage and not communicating in plaintext. It should not allow the default password and username to exist. For a device that connects to your alarm panel, they are not very secure. So do not open up any ports that allow you to access it from the internet.


Taken from here:
https://diysecurityguy.wordpress.com/2015/09/08/review-envisalink-evl-3/


And another warning:
http://www.smarthomehub.net/forums/discussion/20/how-to-access-your-envisalink-externally-with-port-forwarding


14
My PC1832 manual explains how to ground the board and enclosure to both the building ground (water pipe) and main electrical ground.

Realistically, how often is this done, and how important is it to do this?

What if instead of grounding I plug the wall adapter into a surge protector?

I have a mix of wired and wireless contacts.

15
When I'm done my DSC system will consist of 4 keypads, 2 zone expanders, and an EVL4. That will be 7 devices to the keybus.

What I can use to make the connection neater and more reliable than having 7 wires under each terminal? Some type of "hub" with a pigtail going to the main board.

Something that will allow easy removal of individual devices (so no soldering or twisting).

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