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Topics - rakstr

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Is there a command sequence to tell you which slot a particular keypad is assigned?

I can see all my keypads in DLS "Signature Graphic" but I don't l know which is which physically.


Sorry for the repost but the system would not allow me to edit my original, a frequent issue on this board!

I've recently located multiple 5621 Mechanical Heat Detectors in my attics. They're place above the HVAC equipment in the attics and in the RV garage.  I'm guessing I've yet to find one as there is one more wire than I can account for in the panel box though it may be in the wall by the front door for an extra keypad.  I've found multiple phone lines, RG6, and CAT5E in the house that the sheet rock guys buried (proximity wire detectors are the bomb!)

The detectors appear connected to "unused" wires in my alarm panel box (DSC1832) and the VERY faded labels in the box seem to indicate the correct locations.  I haven't buzzed the wires yet but they are connected at the devices.  They appear to be in two loops, don't know yet if serial or parallel.

I know they've never been connected to the panel itself as the ends in the box are all flush cut and I've personally replaced the panel multiple times due to electric events.

I have DLS up an running and use it to manage my panel.

Any good pointers on connecting these sensors to my system?  If it matters, I'm 99% sure the loop for the RV garage detectors passes through the box where the keypad is in that building but also runs all the way to the panel.

No matter what I do, I can only get some zones to use "chirp sounds" other than the default multiple beep chime.  I've tried programming from DLS and direct via keypad.  When using the keypad, bit 1 gets reset even if I clear it.  I can set multiple bits, e.g. 1-3------.  If I do *8,IC,20X,1,#,#,# and then repeat, bit 1 is reset.  I looked for zone defaults (zone 1 is defined as Delay 1) thinking it must be part of the Delay 1 default but could find nothing.

I successfully changed a wireless instant zone (11 and 12) to "Alarm Tone Chime" but any other choice defaults to the multiple beeps.

I even tried programming when the chirps were enable and disabled via the keypad.

DSC 1832 V4.6
3 PK5500 ENG
1 RFK5500
1 PC5008 (OLD LED 8 zone keypad)
1 Envisalink 4

I've got a wired zone that has developed a break in the wire in an inaccessible place.  There was already another zone in similar condition when we bought the house.  It was an upstairs bedroom so I just left it alone.  I don't know if the new "open" is related but we took a severe lightening surge about 3.5 years ago that blew out 10's of thousands of dollars in electronics including the panel and most of the reed switches.  The new trouble spot in question has worked since the repairs, until now.  OH, we also had another surge last June that required me to replace the panel yet again!  YES, it's all behind surge and UPS.  You can't stop lightning!!!!

I've now decided to "fix" things as the new open zone is in a main floor room with a bank of 3 windows.  They are roughly 8 ft edge to edge and there are 3 reed switched in the loop.  I've carefully tested each switch and the loop for the windows and it all works (open circuit/closed circuit).  The resistance on the loop with all windows closed is 6 ohms and 0 when open.

I installed a RFK5500 and have successfully enrolled two WS4945 as zones 9 and 10.  I've tested them with their magnets at the two desired locations and all is as expected for zone reports.  I tested the the WS4945 for the office (3 window room) with wires connected to the external input (no magnet) and shorting/opening the connection acts as expected.  I connected it to ONE of the existing reed switches and again, zone reports as expected when window opened and closed.

Problem is when I connect the 3 window loop it always reports open.  I know the documentation says 3 ft and 100 Ohms and to not use multiple switches but this shouldn't be rocket science to control an open/closed loop device!!!!

Have any of you figured out a way to "trick" this device?  I'm thinking the 6 Ohms isn't enough and perhaps I should add a small resistor to the loop?????

DSC says the warning in the instructions is because they had so many installers tell them they had problems and it's not "by intentional design".

Any help much appreciated!  Otherwise it looks like I'm buying 2 more WS4945 and my "inexpensive fix" would have been better done pulling two new wires.....

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