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No offense intended, but do you think the OP is still waiting for a reply some 5 years after he asked the question?

Well.. you never know.  When I have problems others have experienced years ago, it's still very helpful to find the information available in a public forum when the original OP is long gone.  I'd like to return the favor.  Rather than "answer one person" (time limit) I think of it as "provide reference material" (timeless).

My house has a GE NX-6-V2 control panel and a NX-1448E keypad. All the wires were disconnected when I moved in. I hooked up the cable, keypad, and the motion sensor. However, the keypad (NX-1448E) beeps non-stop. When I hit a key, it will stop, and then after a couple seconds start beeping again. I hit *8 and entered the default installer code 9713 and it got rid of the enter code prompt. However I noticed the "Service" text blinking and then a couple seconds later it started beeping non-stop again. I looked at the manual and online, but I couldn't find what the non-stop beeping means. Not sure if 9713 is the right installer code, but it did rid of the prompt. I'm assuming the keypad is still locked out as it has no service as indicated by its blinking text. Anyone have any insight on this? I really want to reuse this system.

Could be very simple.  If you don't have monitoring service or don't have an active phone line connected to the system, that would cause it to repeatedly start beeping even after you silence it.  It might not be a hardware problem at all.  If this is the case, get back to me and I'll let you know what programming locations to change to make the system tolerant of the situation.

When I arm with STAY, it works as expected.  However, when I arm with EXIT, it behaves like STAY.  Also, if I arm with my pin# and don't exit, it goes into STAY mode, with internals bypassed (as expected).  However, if I ~do~ open a designated exit door and then close it, the system arms and will not respond to internal zones (just like STAY mode). 

I know I must have one of the several hundred programming locations wrong.  I'm still learning what they each do.  I installed an NX-8E (replacing a lightening struck NX-8V2) and hand programmed everything through a keypad.

Now, it all seems to work like the NX-8V2 did exempt my interior zones don't alarm.  Voltages are good at the terminals, which are double-zoned, so I can see low, medium, and high voltages.  I know the hardware is good.  When I individually move the alarm switches in an un-armed state, I can see the status of the zones change on the keypad display. 

Any idea of what I have programmed wrong?

Thanks for the reply. I've tried each keypad separately with the NX-216 also disconnected and they both do the same thing, blinking fire and "Service". I get a 13.6 volt reading between DATA and COM with nothing else connected other than the AC transformer. Is that a good thing or a bad thing?

The 13.6 volts may or may not be bad.  If no data is being sent, then you would expect a static voltage.  On an NX-8E, the serial port sits quiescently at -9.6 volt data compared to common.

I'm working on a project and thought you might be interested.  See  Let me know what information would be useful for you.  If you have information or references that might help me, please let me know.

I'm connecting a Raspberry Pi 3 interface ($40) with my NX-8E home alarm system ($55 used from eBay).  It will use the RS-232 communication built on the NX-8E main controller board, and communicate to the outside world via LAMP (Linux Apache MySQL PHP) running on the Raspberry Pi.

Initially, I want to generate time-history of all the security zones and auxiliary outputs, which also shows overall system status (unarmed, EXIT armed, STAY armed, alarmed status, tampered status).

Do It Yourself Security Community Chat / Re: CADDX NX-8E Siren Installation
« on: September 27, 2016, 12:06:08 AM »
Just finished connecting everything but the outdoor siren on an NX-8E.
On BELL +/- terminals I have connected the indoor siren which is actually a speaker and works just fine.

Just connect the outdoor siren to the same screw terminals (I have two sirens on mine).  Note, however, that you can program these to be different kind of speakers or sirens, so in order to work properly, you should have two of the same type connected - can't be both at the same time!

I am trying to figure out how the AUX1 & AUX2 terminals work but I cannot figure it out. The NC contact remains at all times connected to its C terminal and the NO contact remains open with its C terminal, no matter what the state of the alarm is (healthy or trip). The only thing I managed to do is to turn the AUX C terminal to a -ve 12Vdc when the respective jumpers J12 or J13 are linked.
Do I have to use the AUX OUTS 1/2/3/4 on a relay?
Please help!

No need to do the siren on the AUX outputs.  Use the BELL+ and BELL- as indicated above.

The AUX connections are confusing.  NO and NC are marked - but compared to what?  COM or C?  And why is there only NO for AUX2 and only NC for AUX1 ?  If these are floating relays, why is COM present?  And, if C can switch to 12v output, then it's really not a floating relay terminal.   If they're not floating relays, why have relays at all?  Just switch a terminal to common.

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